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High fliers without bicycles

Created at Leo "Dr. Software" in Guadalupe, Perú at October 30th 2004
While we waited for parts for the bicycles from Germany we used the time for a 10 day-trip into the mountains of the Huascarán-National Park. There we wanted to aclimatise and get used to the altitude.

The air is so thin here, that we hardly could climb the stears of our hotel the first days to reach our room in the 2nd floor. Our starting point, the city Huaraz in the valley of the river Santa Cruz, is at the altitude of 10,100 ft.
While we made a long walk around Huaraz we came through beautifum mountain villagas and met the first time Peruans in their traditional costumes. (ma, mi)

Here in the Perúan Switzerland, like the Huascarán National Park is called, we noticed the first time, that Perú is full of amazing ruins and the Inkas have been by far not the only interesting culture of this country.
This is the three story temple of Willcawain of the Wari and the Huari respectively, of a pre-Inka-culture, who lived about 600 – 1,400 AD  (mi)

Very fascinating for us was the artfull brickwork from untrimmed bricks. We also found in Willcawain other architectural finesses like very good aeration and insulation. We were guided by an committed Peruan tourism student, who spoke so slow and clear, that we nearly understood everyting. (both pictures: ma)

The Huascarán-National Park is full of amazing things. Also the animal- and plant-world keeps a lot of surprises. Only here live the greatest Pineappel-plant (Bromeliaceae) of the world: The Puya Raimondii. This exemplar is small, others can get more than 33 feet! Unique is the blossom, which is built from 8,000-10,000 single blossoms. The Puya Raimondii only blooms once a lifetime which can last more than 100 years.
left: the Puya Raimondii, top: Bromelias, bottom: clamberer and delicate blossoms, all found at an altitude of 13,000-16,500 ft (ma, ma, mi, mi)

Typical high altitude veldt with a bright blue mountain-lake, lamas and the White Cordilleres in the background, like we have seen it on our way to the temple of Chavin (see left side: a "Cabeza Clava"). Chavin, probably the "most mysterious cult site of South America" would take an own report. With a heavy heart we decided to leave it out in this report. (mi)

It has already been the third day in the Huascarán-Nationalpark, but at the Pastoruri-Glacier we had the first time problems with the altitude. The bus brought us up to 15,750 ft. From the parking lot we walked again more than 1,650 ft uphill. The hiking is like walking 30 ft – break – walking 60 ft – long break – walking 30 ft... It took very, very long, but therefore we were awarded with the record altitude of 17,400 ft. Afterwards everybody was very excited, but Markus. He had diarrhea from a duck he ate the day before and felt really sick. All the Peruan tourists consoled him and gave him Mate-tea. (mi)

In Huaraz we saw in a showcase a picture of tents in the mountains. That empressed me so much, that we had to book this hiking trip! With seven other adventurous people, four donkeys, two guides and the donkey driver. We started at Cashapampa (9,500 ft) into the romantic valley of Santa Cruz. (mi)

A magnificent view point surrounded by more than 20,000 ft high mountains and our group having a break. After we introduced us on the hike we noticed, that (excepted one woman) we all were around the world travellers. The only "normal tourist", Silke from the former GDR, actually travells alone around Perú and Bolivia for five weeks. A very interesting group, where Markus and I were with distance the oldest! (ma)

The highest and coldest campground, we ever camped: Taullipampa at about 13,500 ft. At night we all sat with thick clothes in the citchen-tent clutching the hot cups of tea with our cold fingers. We listened to Carlo's explanations of the next stage over the Punta-Union-Pass.
And like ordered a big condor circled over our heads. But he had been too fast and too high to take a sharp picture. (ma/mi)

We made it! All the time the path was as rocky, as you can see in the background. More like a creek bed, where we had to step from one rock to the next, than a path. The donkeys passed us easyly with all the luggage. It impressed us very much, how they coordinated their four legs and always stepped so safe, that they didnt slip. At the pass they were unloaded and changed to another group. (ma/mi)

High in the mountains it can happen, that you meet a little child alone in the loneliness. They take care of goats or sheeps and return to their family not until night. Also to school they walk many miles alone. The cheeks are often burned of the sun like at this little girl. (mi)

Our donkeys have been very hard-working, obedient and absolutely cute. So they got a big hug at the farewell. Then our little bus had to take thousands of serpentines back to Huaraz. Aftewards we took a hot bath in the thermal spring in Monterrey. With our group we celebrated the hike with a big steak dinner in Huaraz. (ma)



Epilogue:
This was exeptionally a "normal" tourist-programm: Every day one or two tours. One clou after the other. We hardly had time to work up the experienced adventures. Cycling has the advantage, that you always get days with less or no attractions. Time enough to work up experiences. Thats what we like more.
So we can recommend to everybody, who wants to travel in the Huascarán-National Park: Take at least one week or more! We didn't get the altitude sicknes, but we just had good luck with our schedule.
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